Of course we went up to the great fort, called the Hohensalzburg. Salzburg was ruled by its archbishop until Napoleon's time, when it was formally merged with Austria in 1814. The archbishops fought constantly with Austria, Bavaria and their own people. They got very rich from the nearby gold mines that were the biggest in the world at the time, and used the cash to build the biggest fortress in central Europe. They also built an enormous organ that bombarded the town with a supposedly terrifying tune three times a day to make sure they didn't forget who the boss was. There's not much left of the interior splendor, but lots of rooms and passageways to explore, and of course fantastic views. We also went to a small concert here one night. On a separate note, I read recently that David Beckham's wife never smiles for photos because she doesn't like the way she looks when smiling. I think I do that too, which is why both of us always look so miserable. Who would have thought Posh and I have so much in common?