I wanted to keep Tokei-ji separate not because of its aesthetics but because of its story. The temple has very well-kept, contemplative gardens, but the buildings are fairly non-descript. What I liked about it was its role as the "divorce temple". For much of Japan's history, it was impossible for a woman to leave her husband legally. If, however, she ran away and managed to make it to this temple without getting caught, she could stay as a nun, and after three years she would be declared officially divorced. Now I know where the idea for the Amazing Race came from!

I'm getting lazy and just going to group various temple photos together. These are all Zen Buddhist temples dating from 13th century when the Kamakura shoguns ruled Japan. The photos come from Engaku-ji and Kencho-ji temples, the number two and one temples in the rankings obsessed Kamakura hierarchy, a gift they obviously passed on to the Japanese tourism and culture ministries.

The shrine to the Minamotos occupies a prime site in the middle of the city park. It's not particularly beautiful, although as you can see it's quite popular. More interesting is the walkway leading to the shrine. The shogun's wife had two ponds constructed on either side of the walkway. To the left, was the Minamoto pond, with three islands, three being a very auspicious number throughout Asia. And to the right she placed the Taira pond, named after her arch enemies, with four islands. Again across Asia, four means death, which is why in many Asian hotels there won't be a fourth floor, much like the Western thirteen.

29. Kamakura

Another day trip took us to Kamakura and Hase. Kamakura is historically important, but I didn't like it as much as some of the other historical centres like Nikko and Nara. I think Kamakura is too close to Tokyo, so it feels more suburban and was lacking the natural setting for most of its sights. It has lots of historical temples, but they're scattered around the city and we had to walk through too much suburbia between temples, so it breaks the illusion of being back in time, although the ladies at left helpfully wore kimonos to try to bridge the gap for us.

While the emperor and his court were firmly ensconced in Kyoto, the shoguns almost always held actual power. The Fujiwara, who you may remember from the Nara discussion, were the first shogun family, but as their power waned, a huge civil war between two rival families, the Minamoto and the Taira raged throughout the country during the 12th century. When the Minamoto emerged victorious, they made their base in Kamakura, which became the de facto capital until 1333. None of the palaces and castles remain, but there are plenty of temples to while away the day.