Chuzenji does get its fair share of tourists, though, and the ambience quickly deteriorated as we approached the waterfall, the town's primary attraction. It's pretty enough, and again the natural backdrop is outstanding. But they've built this mega-complex across from the waterfall with multiple viewing platforms, restaurants, shops and a huge elevator that takes you down to the bottom of the cliff so you can see the waterfall from a different perspective. Seems like a lot of effort to attract tourists to what should be a natural draw. After seeing the waterfall from top to bottom, we retraced our steps back to Tokyo.

In the afternoon, we took a quick bus trip to neighboring Chuzenji, to see some more mountain scenery, this time arrayed around Lake Chuzenji instead of the Nikko shrines. The village isn't up to much,but the lake was quite pretty and tranquil.