We headed back to the piazza for dinner, at Quadri's, one of the world's oldest restaurants (270 years in the same place). It's also one of the most famous due to its pole position on the Piazza, and the well-known story of its rivalry with the cafe across the square, Florian's. During the Napoleonic wars, one cafe housed the French military stationed in Venice, and the other was the hangout of the local, independence-minded elite. They both had orchestras, which sent out dueling musical messages. Both places still have outdoor orchestras that entertain a decidedly more downscale crowd, and both still gouge the customer with twenty dollar coffees. Since most people have sticker shock at the coffee in the cafe, few venture up to the restaurant above, which is too bad because it's quite good and its prices, though high, are no higher than the typical Venetian high-end place. But for the price you get loads of history, elaborate decor, and very solicitious service. Food is good but again pretty traditional. (Food-14, Decor-16, Service-17).