Crossed the river one last time to the old Roman neighborhood of Trastevere, Rome's answer to Brooklyn. This area is supposedly the authentic Rome, whereas the rest of the city has been yuppified and globalized so much that it's lost its Romanness. Of course you'd have to be a true Roman to notice this, so for the tourist it's just another neighborhood to explore. It's got a couple of sights to take in, but mostly it's famous for cheap cafes and restaurants that attract the rest of the city when looking for a good night out.



Santa Maria in Trastevere is the big landmark, and possibly the city's oldest church (I think I've said that about four different churches now). There's been a church here since around 220 AD, although the current church dates from the eleventh century. The mosaics inside are the main attraction, although actually the very pretty square in front, lined with outdoor cafes and neighborhood kids playing, is even better.