We had lunch in a local pizzeria, down that gloomy alley in the photo. But it was as usual good food, and very happy waiters. We then continued walking around the area, spending an hour on the Via Giulia, pictured here. Pope Julius had it built around 1500 as something like Rome's freeway, a wide straight road plowed through the twisted medieval streets. (He also named it after himself.) This became a highly desirable address, and the street is lined with great architecture and very strange fountains.