When we visited, Cambodia was still very unstable, and tourism was still pretty low key. In addition to the perennial government mess, there were still lots of land mines all over the area left over from the Vietnam War, which also limited the tourism appeal. Historically there was only one Western hotel, the very nice colonial style Grand Hotel (the evening photo). It was pretty small and fully booked for our trip, but the second western hotel had just opened, the Sofitel. This was quite a vote of confidence in Cambodia's future, because it's a very large, modern hotel. I would have preferred the Grand for the atmosphere, but the Sofitel was quite comfortable and had a great pool and decent food. Both were important, since full day temple touring is lethal, so you've got to take a long lunch break at the pool to survive, and there were no restaurants in town, just a couple local hole in the wall bars. In the last few years, tourism has exploded, and there are a dozen huge Western hotels (unfortunately the Grand has recently succumbed to the temptation and built a huge modern addition, totally ruining the place). There's also a full fledged tourism district with scores of restaurants, and even a trendy gay bar. But when we were there Siam Reap was a very sleepy place. Sofitel: (6), Room-6, Facilities-6, Service-5, Wow-0.